Donnerstag, 30. August 2012

......all free in a day!

 on the fist ascent (organe shirt, center of the picture) notice the water falling way far from the wall,´s steep

Finally I could realise the first free ascent in a day of my  first ascent at the rote wand. I opened the route from the ground up.  7 pitches ,difficulty 8b+, protection: traditional + bolts, character: run in- run out, lost of air under the a**
Details will follow…..

                         on the first pitch.......                                                         copyright Jutz P.

The best state of mind to start my 6 week adventure to Indian Himalaya,… psyched

Donnerstag, 16. August 2012

Valhalla Rising

  © Thomas Wanner

Sometimes I have to step out of my “comfort” zone to feel exposure. This crazy rock formation is located in a field of blocks as a result of a rock fall in 1972. In January I could realise the first repetition of the “Haselwurzfall” (FA: 22 years ago R., G. Mathis) a crazy steep icefall.
On the approach to the fall, I found this huge “finger” while scrambling up through this block field. I was surprised about this present, as I really like high boulders and clear lines.
In March I made the first ascent of “Valhalla Rising” 7b+ after checking it out with a rope. It´s serious climbing with no fall option above the crux moves.
Location: Hohenems/Unterklien. 

                                                       © Thomas Wanner