After my first time in the US I travelled to Frankenjura for the Adidas Base Camp event at Burg Rabenstein.
I met up with the other climbers of the team and we had a great and productive time together with meetings and climbing lot’s of chatting with the other athletes and good food ;).
After this few days with not much climbing, I travelled for my first time to North Wales. In my mind I was prepared for shitty weather, scary routes, cool people and lot´s of rock.
Dorita accompanied me and when we stepped out off Manchester airport the sun was shining and no cloud was visible. This day Rob Greenwood picked us up and introduced us to the Welsh rock. This visit we went climbing at the sea cliffs of Gogarth, Rhoscolyn, Craig Dorys the Slate Quarry and on the pass. I fell in love with the climbing in Wales. The walls are small compared to the Alps, sometimes with lot´s of vegetation, and often wet. But there are lot ´s off different types of rock so close that it´s easy to combine two climbing spots in a day. The rocks are drying fast and on trad climbing it´s not about running up 10 routes to have a proper training. I am remembering a writing on the bar in the Klatrekafeen in Henningsvaer it ´s saying: “Sport climbing is like eating a burger at Mc Donalds, you now what you get.” (Dough Scott)
Compared to the climbing on the sandstone in Utah, where you can almost place every two meters a protection if you carry enough gear and a bomber endurance ;). In Wales it was like being an artist. Looking up a blank wall deciding what gear could be needed and just start the climb and see what you find. It´s more a journey up the wall searching for features that will capture a wire, a cam or a sling.
Electric Blue at Rhoscolyn, amazing solo
My impression of the local climbing community was that everyone climbs but nobody talks about how bold or epic his day was and that’s something I have rarely seen on my travels. It´s just about climbing and not how is better or the more badass climber.
Thanks DMM team and friends fro the good times.
very windy day at the seacliffs of north wales
the weather was amazing, the first 4 days we had sunshine all day ; )
Not so solid rock but great atmosphere, Craig Dorys
Classic E3 at Craig Dorys on a rainy day
and myself at work ;) Cockplot E5 on sight